From ACP to exosomes, treatments experts recommend for pigmentation, acne and sun damage

Summer’s searing heat can dry out the skin, while monsoon’s humidity can send oil glands into an overdrive; often resulting in pigmentation, dark spots, and fine lines. It is time to prepare the skin for a seasonal six-month battle, with new-age treatments recommended by experts and backed by advances in dermatology.

Skin specialist and digital creator Nipun Kapur Sohal
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“Sun damage is one of the main concerns among Indians of both genders and all age groups,” says skin specialist and digital creator Nipun Kapur Sohal. “Most of my clients come to me to reduce the appearance of dark spots, pigmentation, acne and sun damage,” she adds. Meanwhile, Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Rashmi Shetty identifies “Pigmentation, dark spots, dull skin and dark circles,” as the top three skin issues addressed by her clients.

Consistency over intensity

Hydration is key, according to Nipun. “Keep the routine simple,” she advises. “A cleanser, a moisturiser, and a single targeted active — either retinol or peptides — used both morning and evening. Skin thrives when it isn’t overwhelmed.” She cautions against layering with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C etc. as they can wreck your skin’s barrier. The skin regime should be about “adopting a few high-impact rituals you can realistically repeat all year, because skin changes through consistency, not intensity,” Nipun says.

Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra, founder and chief dermatologist at Delhi-based Alive Wellness Clinics
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“Regenerative, science-led skincare is taking precedence over cosmetic correction. Clients now prefer sustainable long-term results rather than instant results. These work more on the cellular level rather than on the surface,” says Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra, founder and chief dermatologist at Delhi-based Alive Wellness Clinics.

 Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Rashmi Shetty 
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“Wellness from within is key when it comes to glowing, beautiful skin. So, the focus also shifts towards diet, exercise and other lifestyle changes,” says Dr Rashmi.

Get glowing

To stimulate skin’s regeneration naturally, most skincare specialists are recommending ACP or autologous conditioned plasma. As the name suggests, the procedure uses plasma drawn from the patient’s own blood to stimulate collagen production and improve skin texture. It also helps repair sun damage and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and scars.

Polydeoxyribonucleotide or PDRN is another popular skincare ingredient derived from salmon DNA. Among celebrities who have tried the treatment are Jennifer Aniston, Nora Fatehi and Kim Kardashian. Kardashian has said that it has left her skin feeling youthful and hydrated. 

“The treatment is bound to gain importance due to its ability to hydrate and repair the skin,” Dr Chiranjiv says. It also has added benefits of improving your skin texture and reducing inflammation. It is applied topically via serum or via micro-needling or injections.

Collagen is another skin enhancing active that gained momentum in the last few years and it continues to do so this year too.

Exosomes, usually delivered via microneedling, are tiny sacs containing skin-repairing proteins. The treatment again boosts collagen, helps reduce fine lines and scars.

Facial rejuvenation using dermapen microneedling technique
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Nipun recommends ACP, PDRN and exosomes to those over the age of 35 mainly because these treatments are for enhancing your skin and slow down aging. Nipun normally doesn’t recommend treatments for those in their early 20s, as they tend to have naturally supple and youthful skin. Treatments are recommended only if an issue is severe.

If fresh, more moisturised skin is what you are looking for, especially after a holiday at a desert or a tropical beach, the bio-modulators treatment could be for you. Biomodulators enhance firmness and hydration of the skin, while maintaining natural facial movement and expression. A biomodulator is an injectable substance like hyaluronic acid, calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA), and polylactic acid, which stimulates the body’s natural process to produce collagen and elastin. “The actives are injected into the skin using microneedling,” Dr Chiranjiv says. And adds that the treatment is suitable for those in their early or mid-twenties as a preventitive measure and for those in their thirties as a restorative treatment.

Peptide-driven treatments containing short-chain amino acids function as molecule messengers to reduce visible signs of aging. “This treatment can be opted by those in their 20s, as a preventative option, and as a restorative option for those in their mid-30’s to mid 40s. And, it can be opted by those in their 50s to repair mature skin, reinforce the skin barrier,” says Dr Chiranjiv. This type of treatment can be opted by those who have mature skin, dry and dull skin or acne-prone skin.There are a few types of peptide treatments to choose from, like signal peptides, which signal the skin to produce structural proteins like elastin for firmer skin; neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, often known as Botox in a Jar, that relax facial muscles and reduce appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Then there is enzyme-inhibitor peptides, which helps slow down the breakdown of collagen and elastin.

Peptide-driven treatments containing short-chain amino acids function as molecule messengers to reduce visible signs of aging
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“Consumers today are more aware of the importance of hydration for improvement of overall skin quality. And skin boosters do just that,” Dr Chiranjiv says. The treatment includes micro injections of hyaluronic acid, which would hydrate the skin deeply and improve the skin’s elasticity. “The treatment can be done by anyone from age 20 and upwards,” Dr Chiranjiv says.

The Fotona laser treatment gently resurfaces the skin layer to help treat active acne, red marks, and reduces the appearance of acne scars. It is also used for removal of sun spots, birthmarks, and other pigmented lesions. Nipun says that she would recommend this for someone above 25.

CO2 fractional ablative laser being used for skin rejuvenation (skin resurfacing) as a medical cosmetic procedure in a beauty laser clinic
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“I’ve done laser therapy (fotona) to get rid of acne marks. In my experience, it is effective. The treatment can last between 15 and 60 minutes depending on severity of the condition and the downtime is just two days, which works well for me,” says 37-year-old, Mumbai-based Rhea Shukla, a law professional, who battled frequent acne breakouts during her teens.

Mesothreads lifting and face contouring
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And she says that she would recommend the Endolift treatment, a precise but invasive procedure for those above 40. The procedure involves either inserting a flexible laser fibre (microneedle) under the skin; or deliverance of laser energy, that contours tissues for a more defined look.

“About more than a year ago, I opted for a Threadlift, which is quite similar to an Endolift, mainly because I was overweight and when I lost weight, I had a lot of loose skin, so the procedure helped me fix it,” says Jinal Niser, a 39-year-old, Mumbai-based entrepreneur.