Comfort, served hot – The Hindu
Kefi, the rooftop restaurant at Taj Club House had been synonymous with my post work date nights. When the pandemic hit, this place ceased to exist and eventually, so did my relationships. But now it has reopened again, this time as Lava. I revisit this old haunt over the weekend with my friend to have a relaxed girl’s night out.
We head up to the seventh floor, walk past the pool and gym — where conscientious people are running on treadmills on a Saturday night — to the new space. The interiors still feel like Kefi, with its bulbous blue lanterns and limestone walls; the al fresco area lends itself well to romantic dinners and is more visibly appealing with soft glow table lamps, the grey-blue sky above and a 180 degree view of Anna Salai including Spencer Plaza, Taj Connemara, and the LIC building.
The restaurant offers global comfort food
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Special Arrangement
What is nice is the space does not try too hard. It embraces what it has and does not rely on bright lights, loud decor or props. Miraculously, the weather is still pleasant, despite the notorious Chennai summer making a comeback after a short sabbatical. Come peak summer months, it will be industrial fans to the rescue.
The menu comprises global comfort food. Hearty soups, sliders, sushi, dim sum, ramen, grills… flavours from the Mediterranean, Europe and Asia. The compact menu for the most part steers clear of haute cuisine and trendy viral dishes, and sticks to food that evokes a sense of comfort , which for sure comes from all the delicious carbs.
We spot Levantine fries and neither of us has the willpower to say no. And to top it off, it is served with cheese fondue. Little pink flowers and pomegranate pearls make this everyday snack look avant garde. With each bite, I hear a delightful crunch. Beautifully crisp on the outside and smooth inside, these are made using Mettupalayam potatoes that have less water content. We opt for the Lava seasoning that lends an Indian flavour with a familiar blend of coriander seeds, cumin, cardamom, fennel seed, red chilli, black pepper,and rock salt.
Chicken siu mai is served next and it is as good as any sui mai can get, almost worthy of a spot in any Chinatown. Each siu mai, bigger than the usual size, comes in a separate basket of its own. While our drinks arrive, we peck at some freshly baked focaccia.
Our cocktails are such a contrast. Mine — Strawberry Creme Royale — is a subtly sweet, rum-based drink with fresh cream and strawberry, vanilla pods, and a tinge of cinnamon, while my friend gets a spirit forward picante with fresh coriander, agave syrup and jalapenos which dominate the palate. The other interesting drinks on the menu include Lunar Lavendar Martini, Yuzu Eclipse, The Sweet Spot and classic cocktails like White Russian, Moscow Mule and Espresso Martini. The thoughtfully curated beverage menu also has zero proof mocktails such as Nojito, Berry Bombshell, but the one that catches our attention for obvious reasons is: Safe Sex on The Beach (a sweet and tangy combination of peach and orange juice, cranberries and Grenadine).
As we savour our cocktails and soak in the peaceful atmosphere — note: no loud, blaring music, just gentle peals of laughter and soft murmurs from neighbouring tables — we notice there is something rather soothing about this place. Unfortunately, the seating is not as comfortable. The square blue seat cushions keep sliding off and we keep shimmying to adjust them. The mosquitoes are a menace too; enjoying a buffet at our feet while we decide our main course.
For the main course the frontrunners are the chicken teriyaki bowl, grilled cottage cheese chimichurri steak, meat skewer laal maas gravy. We bet on the smoky, almond dukkah crusted lamb chops and it does not let us down. I would say this is my pick off the menu. The meaty chops have a beautiful texture — crisp and coarse on the surface — and a nutty taste from the dukkah. Meanwhile, the kulchette fails to dazzle. The kulchas are stuffed with cheese, generously topped with butter chicken (great for your protein goal) and mimics a pizza. It gets everything right in theory but when it comes to taste, it is mediocre at best.
The green apple and cinnamon sorbet lifts our palate with its fruity and sharp flavour. And then comes the gulab jamun cheesecake, an indulgence that is treated as one. A relief from the half-hearted jaggery, granola versions of dessert. The gulab jamun sits cosily between a layer of French sable cookies and cheesecake. It is not cloying and the creamy cheesecake balances the sweetness. This dessert is about 516 calories, according to the menu. But this is a calorie-filled hug you do not want to miss.
Meal for two costs ₹3,000 without alcohol. Lava is at Taj Club House, 2 Club House Road, Express Estate, Royapettah.
Published – March 10, 2026 05:42 pm IST
